Diamond Cuts and Shapes: Rose Cut Diamonds

A diamond cut refers to the style of shaping a diamond with symmetrical arrangement of facets. Facets are geometrical shapes, which are cut into gemstones, to improve their looks; and to facilitate reflection of light.

The history of diamond cuts can be traced back to the end of the Middle Age. The rose cut is believed to have originated in India; but another contention is that it was actually developed in Holland, and the earlier Indian versions were crude forms of this cut. However, the rose cut got popular during the latter part of the sixteenth century.

A typical rose cut diamond has a unique shape and facet arrangement. It has a flat bottom and an elevated pointed dome, with triangular facets forming a point. The dome is generally in the shape of a hemisphere or a pyramid.

The number of triangular facets in a rose cut diamond may vary between 12 to 24. Generally it has a lower tier of triangular facets, which in combination with the upper tier, gives the look of a rose bud.

The facets in the upper tier are called star facets, and the ones in the lower tier are known as the diagonal facets. Usually, the middle portion of a rose cut diamond has six triangular facets, which meet at a point in the center. The outline of this diamond is usually circular, but there are oval, hexagonal, and pear-shaped domes. The facet arrangement in rose cut diamonds are usually in multiples of six.

The rose cut is also known as the crowned rose cut, Dutch cut, and the Full Holland cut. The Antwerp rose cut is hexagonal in outline. In a Double Dutch rose cut, there are 48 facets with two back-to-back hemispheres. A briolette cut is a modified form of Double Dutch cut, with one of the hemispheres in an elongated shape. The outline of this diamond is oval shaped. A senaille cut has irregular facets, which are non-symmetrical.

These diamonds require extra care. As the dome of the diamond protrudes, it is possible that it can get damaged or chipped along the facet points, which are the most delicate points of the diamond. The setting of rose cut diamonds is very delicate, and needs careful handling.

Usually the settings used for these diamonds are prong, bezel, and flush. Above all, most of these diamonds are part of antique jewelry, which anyway need to be maintained with caution.

These diamonds are distinct for their facets, but the facets can cause some disadvantages. This style of cut can increase the carat weight of the diamond, which in turn, can dull the brilliance. Rose cut diamonds reflect the light from outside, but there is no refraction of inner glitter. In some of these diamonds, a thin layer of silver or gold coating is attached to the bottom, to enhance the brilliance.

Nevertheless, there is a revival in the demand for rose cut diamonds, and both the old and new versions are available now. You can differentiate the older ones by their irregular shape and knife-edge girdle. 

The new ones are more calibrated (cut to exact sizes), and most of them have their origin in India. Diamonds are evergreen and you can always add a rose cut diamond to your favorite jewelry collection.